
London used to live on oysters, countless slippery mollusc lives, torn from the river, gulped and digested to fuel another day’s labour. No oyster now survives in the Thames. The sewerage killed them off, and even mudlarks do not deign to pick up the worn shells that grind beneath their boots as they prowl the water’s edge. Today an oyster is a slip of blue plastic. It fits snugly in your purse, and may, or may not, remind you: ‘The world is your oyster’.



